Reverse Applique: The Ricochet Method...

From A Glossary of Quilting Terms I found online:

applique --a piecing process using small cutouts of fabric which are then sewn onto a background fabric in a decorative design. Typically intricate and curved floral and animal motifs are used.

reverse applique --designs made by sewing on a patch to the underside of the block and then cutting away and turning under the edge of the top fabric.


From Ricochet's Glossary of Sewing Techniquies:

Ricochet's method of reverse applique--designs achieved by stitching toether 2 or more layers of fabric and cutting off portions of the top layer(s) to reveal the fabric underneath.  No turning under of raw edges!  Leave 'em rough and tough!  See Ricochet's Reverse Applique Gallery for examples.


Basically, "applique" is attaching small shapes of fabric to a larger background.  So, you cut your shape first, then sew in on.  In "reverse applique" you stitch your shape first and cut last.  Kind of hard to type out.  However, once you see it, you'll totally "get" it.

Check out this little demonstration I cooked up today:

I took 3 layers of fabric and pinned them together.

I drew a simple design on one side. Note: I drew on the "top" side with a gel pen for the sake of the tutorial. You should draw on the back with chalk or your pattern-marking pencil.

Using my shortest stitch length, I stitch over all the lines of my flower. I used red thread so you all could easily see the stitching.

I pull all my threads to the back side and this is what it looks like so far.

I use a seam ripper to make a hole in the center of the flower. I'm careful to ONLY CUT THROUGH THE TOP LAYER. I use little scissors (from a beard-trimming set, I think) to cut out the center of the flower. I leave a raw edge about 3mm wide from the stitching. Note: if you cut through your stitching, or you cut through extra layers, all is lost! :-( You must start over again. Do not pass go. Do not collect your $200.

Then, I cut out the outside of the flower, leaving a raw edge of about 3mm from the stitching.

You know what I have now? I have what looks like an applique white flower (with a reverse applique center) on a blue background. But did I carefully cut out a white flower, carefully pin it to my blue background, and carefully stitch around all the edges? No, I didn't. I think the technique I used was far simpler.

Next, I cut through the center of the flower again, revealing the green fabric in the very back.   

Now look at what I have here. 3 layers of fabric. All 3 layers are playing their roles in creating a simple flower design.  Maybe all those raw edges are driving you crazy (you neat-freak, you!). You can trim them down a bit more closer to the stitching and then cover them up with a satin stitch. Once you satin stitch all the edges, no one will ever know if you used reverse applique or not. It'll be our little secret! Shhhh!

Just for fun, I got out my super-special fabric marker, er pink highlighter, I mean. I did a little coloring for beautification purposes. 

I added a corduroy button for a finishing touch. Now wouldn't that make a great pocket for a little girl's dress? The possibilities with this technique are endless. And unlike normal applique, you didn't need any expensive adhesives or fusible web or spray-on basting...

I would love to hear your thoughts on this.  I've been looking, but haven't seen a tute that approaches reverse applique like I do.  Let me know if you have, please. 

I made this tute as a reference tool for The Retro Pillow Challenge:

 Are you up for a challenge?

Happy crafting and big hugs from Montana,